By: Jason

When I was first awarded my Fulbright Fellowship, I was amazed and completely overwhelmed. I had initially thought that this was above and beyond my capabilities given the prestige and honor that come with such an award. I wasn't sure if I wanted to truly commit to living abroad (and in the Middle East). However, after giving myself some time to think more in depth about the decision and talk with friends and family, I quickly realized that accepting and engaging in Fulbright work was not only unique, but necessary. Even upon attending the Fulbright orientation in Washington D.C., I still had some doubts as to how my experience might be.

At the shuk in Jerusalem

As my Fulbright appointment grew closer, I was regularly in contact with my host at my sponsoring institute, the University of Haifa. My host was extremely helpful both in outlining our goals for the fellowship, as well as assisting with the logistical challenges that come with moving abroad and setting up for research in Israel. Within my first week in Israel, I realized I had made the right choice and have never looked back. Not only has this experience helped me to become a better scientist and teacher, my time spent abroad has truly allowed me to transform into a better person provide a positive influence on most everyone with whom I interacted.

Hunting for limpets (to feed my lobsters) with Ehud in Akko

I certainly had preconceived notions about the people I would meet. Instead, I was surprised by the diversity and breadth of individuals in not only the University setting, but our neighborhood, and throughout the country. I met people of all ages, colors, religions, and backgrounds. I had the opportunity to not only interact with academics (my assumption from the beginning), but with individuals in so many different scenarios. The collage of people that I had the pleasure to meet, talk to, and work with allowed me to see the true scope and vision of the Fulbright mission.  

Israeli soldier at the border in Rosh Hanikra

From an academic perspective, I believe my Fulbright experience has given me research and teaching opportunities that I would never have had. These experiences will eventually help me in moving forward with my career, but that is only part of it.

Since recently completing my Fellowship, I have had some time to continue to think about these impacts. I still come back to the most fulfilling part, which was the unique opportunity to forge new friendships, professional collaborations, and share opinions and perspectives. I can unequivocally say that my experience has been transformative and I have grown personally and professionally by leaps and bounds.

Hiking in Haifa

By: Jason and Rebecca

As we mentioned in the previous post, Fulbright sponsored a trip to Israel's south. It was the first trip of the new year. The main purpose of the trip was to meet the new Fulbrighters and to reconnect with the others. Ambassador (Dan) Shapiro showed up for an informal meet-and-greet before we all headed out on the bus. 

Just like the trip in February, we stayed over night at a kibbutz. This time, it was Kibbutz Ein Gedi located on a hill overlooking the Dead Sea. The kibbutz has created an oasis in the desert and the scenery is a beautiful contrast between the sand and stone of the desert, the bright green foliage of the oasis, and the brilliant blue of the sea. 

View of the Dead Sea from Ein Gedi Kibbutz

Morning sun on the desert mountains

It was great to get to know everyone over dinner followed by tea on the bar patio. According to the signs on our table, we were the "Funbright" group. Judging by the amount of laughter at dinner, this is proving to be quite true. The other neat thing about this group is the huge diversity of backgrounds. There are several archaeologists - from classical to digital, professors, photographers, engineers, historians, ecologists, and biologists. It definitely made for some spirited and hilarious conversation.

The next day brought the jeep excursion, lunch at another kibbutz, a trip to a weaving center in a Bedouin town, and finally a long bus ride back to Haifa. 

By: Rebecca and Jason

When you think of autumn, what comes to mind? Apple picking, pumpkins, hay rides, to name a few. How does a jeep ride through the desert sound? Not very fall like!

A view of the desert, Dead Sea and Jordan. The lines
in the sea are where salt is collected for everything
from cosmetics to food.

This past week Fulbright sponsored their first trip of the new year -  an excursion to Israel's deserts. We will describe the rest of the trip in another post, but this particular highlight deserved a post of it's own. 

One of the remarkable things about Israel is how diverse the landscapes are - from north to south and from east to west. Most people assume the entire country is a desert, but in fact, the deserts are primarily found in the south. 

The touring jeeps met us at the hotel first thing in the morning. Along with a few others, we had our eyes on the one Land Rover that was open on all sides. We piled in and set off down the highway. Ali, our Bedouin driver, suddenly pulled over shouting, "I do something for the children!" He jumped out and proceeded to unfasten and lower the windshield. These were, after all Land Rovers, which come apart like Legos. He drove off like a bat out of hell, raised his fist, and shouted, "TO AFRICA!!" 

Look Mom, no windshield!

Our Land Rover - by far the best of the bunch!

A short time later, Ali took a hard right off the highway and the true adventure began. We blasted down desert "roads", through narrow channels between cliffs, getting lessons about desert flora and fauna, how to use rocks as sunscreen, and what to do if you are lost in the desert overnight (besides panic). At one point, we climbed a steep canyon wall and up to a cliff that looked like the edge of the world (a classic Thelma and Louise moment). Luckily, instead of driving over the cliff, we were treated to an amazing view of the Judaean Desert, the Dead Sea, and the mountains of Jordan on the other side. Back in the jeep, Ali, insisted on "testing" the brakes more than once by inching towards the drop-off. Don't try this at home!

Ali proved to be an excellent driver. Although we spent much of the ride hanging on for dear life, he was being mostly careful. However, at one point, our fellow Fulbrighter (and resident archaeologist)  Alex lost her grip as our Land Rover became airborne. She flew through the air, landing across our laps. Fortunately no one was injured (though a bit shell-shocked) and the show went on. 

Can you spot the ibex?

Another memorable moment came when our fellow Bay Stater announced the Red Sox's victory in the first round of the playoffs. We all cheered loudly. Never thought I'd hear that news while in the middle of the desert! Can you believe cell phones work out there?

Our tour guides were Bedouins, a people indigenous to the deserts of the Middle East. They make their living off the land. They are friendly, cooperative, and more than willing to open your eyes to what, a first glance, just looks like a vast pile of sand. Our guide, Ali, told us that the desert is his "forest" and that he feels completely at home and at peace there. 

There is some water in the desert

Halfway through the 4-hour tour, our guides stopped in the shade of a large cliff and spread out a very large mat. They unloaded water and snacks and camping stoves on which they made tea from the local flora. It was a welcome break from being jolted around and sandblasted at 60 mph.

Making tea the Bedouin way

Although Israel's largest desert is the Negev, there are several smaller geographic desert areas, including the Judaean desert, which encompasses the area around the Dead Sea. It was a fantastic experience, but please excuse me while I get back to digging sand out of my ears.

More photos of our excursion in the album...

I didn't know you could make that with challah!

Thursday night we attended the US Embassy's annual 4th of July party hosted by Ambassador Shapiro at his lovely home in Herlziya (just north of Tel Aviv). Unlike our last visit, this time the Ambassador was able to enjoy his own party - along with 2000 of his closest friends! The backyard was packed with people!! You could barely find space to stand. The party was sponsored by several big American companies and their booths and food stands were set up all over the place. We sampled some classic American fast food washed down with nice cold Israeli beer.

The backyard of the US Ambassador's house

The US Ambassador to Israel and his wife (and us!)

There were some very interesting people at the party, Americans and Israelis alike. Among them Haredi Jews, members of the US and Israeli armed forces, USAid workers, Embassy staff, and a Franciscan Monk, We talked with lots of people from all different backgrounds. 

The impressive guest list included several members of the Knesset, Prime Minister Netanyahu, President Peres, and apparently supermodel Bar Refaeli (though we didn't see her). 

R-L: Ambassador Shapiro, President Peres,
PM Netanyahu, Sara Netanyahu, Julie Fisher

One of the other highlights (if you can call it that) was Jason's unplanned nose dive into the shrubbery during President Peres' speech. The heat, lights, and hours of standing were just too much for him (maybe it was Bar Refaeli - who knows) . After handing me the camera and saying he needed to go sit down, Jason apparently stumbled in circles before taking a faceplant in the grass. Next thing he knew, he was being helped by a nice Asian man in military dress. I felt awful for missing the whole incident, but Jason said he was glad I was taking pictures!

The evening was capped by an unexpectedly spectacular fireworks display. Overall, one of the best 4th of July events we've been to - even though we weren't in the USA. More photos in our web albums.

Fireworks to cap off the evening

By: Jason

The last Fulbright-sponsored event of the year was two weeks ago. We received our formal invitation for dinner at the U.S. Ambassador's house several weeks ago. It was a great chance to see the other American Fulbrighters (some of whom are leaving in a month or two) and meet the newly minted  Israeli Fulbright Scholars who are going to the United States. 

Our fancy invitation

We got all dressed up (you'll have to take my word for it, somehow we don't have any pictures).

Unfortunately, because John Kerry was in town, the Ambassador, Mr. Daniel Shapiro, was absent from his own dinner and instead was in Jerusalem! He missed a good time. The food was nice, the atmosphere nicer -- a lush hilly green backyard lawn (almost never see this here) gave way to a beautiful scenic overview of the Mediterranean Sea at sunset.  And, yes, there was a large in-ground pool and jacuzzi too! Our dinner tables were clustered around the yard and though it would have been nice to sit with my U.S. Fulbright colleagues, it was also interesting to have sat with Israeli Fulbrighters and those in the community and get their perspective on things. 

From my point of view it was nice to be recognized so formally by Fulbright, the U.S. Department of State, and the country of Israel.  I felt for at least a few moments the pride in representing my country, my family, and my academic discipline.

Almost forgot about dessert --- something of a variety of colors, tastes, and flavors and, interestingly enough, was the same dessert that was served during President Obama's recent visit to Israel.

Dessert - this was in addition to the towering
plates of chocolates at each table

We decided to stay with another U.S. Fulbrighter (from Vermont) at her place in nearby Herzliya.  A mere 20-30 min. walk from a beautiful beach, so we took advantage of our time there.  Beaches in Israel range from idyllic large stretches of soft white sand and great beach combing, to centers of sunbathing, eating, drinking, and shopping.  But I might add that in the latter case, Israelis do it well.  Most of the really large beaches that folks flock to are bounded by a 'promenade' (you might call this a boardwalk) along which are found some really nice restaurants, chairs, umbrellas, etc..  You can lounge in the shade and have a beer while your kids play in the sand close by - not a bad deal!!

One of Israel's idyllic beaches - in Mikhmoret

By: Rebecca

Our latest Fulbright adventure was a half day trip to go wine tasting in the nearby town of Zikhron Ya'akov. The Haifa contingent met the our tour guide, Irma, and she drove us to meet the rest of the group at the Rothschild gardens. The gardens are apparently quite beautiful, but we did not go in. Instead we took a tiyul (hike/nature walk/excursion) in the nature reserve adjacent to the gardens.

View of the valley from the edge of the Carmel Mountains

Pomegranate tree in bloom

It was a gorgeous day and it was nice to be outside. Much nicer than Monday when we had yet another dust storm. There is a very cool aqueduct  which brings water to the nearby city of Caesarea. Irma told us there is a hike that follows the aqueduct underground.  I've put that on the to-do list especially when it is hot out this summer.

After the tiyul, we went to the Tishbi winery. Tishbi – an acronym standing for “a resident of Shefeya in Israel” in Hebrew: Toshav Shefeya b'Israel. We had purchased their wines previously so we were excited to see behind the scenes. We had a great tour of the winery itself. Our guide was excellent and taught us many things about wine making that we didn't know. After the tour was the best part, the tasting. A flight of 6 wines, each paired with chocolate!!! 

The tasting room and store - so many wines!

Oak barrels (made in the USA) in the aging room

Wine and chocolate - what more
could you want

After the wine tasting we had a nice lunch and were on our way back to Haifa. For anyone thinking of visiting, another trip to Tishbi is on our list :)

By: Jason

Sorry for the long post, but it’s really worthy of it.

I think the verdict was virtually dead-locked when asking people their thoughts on whether or not I should go to Egypt.  After a lot of thinking and talking to many of my peers (both in the U.S. and Israel), I decided, that this Fulbright-sponsored trip would be worthwhile.  Luckily, it was a good decision.  One of the most meaningful and eye-opening trips I have ever been on.  The experience provided an amazing combination of academic immersion with my Fulbright colleagues, the rich and ancient history of Cairo and its surroundings, and dramatic insight into the cultural and political upheaval that the Egyptian people are surrounded by.  I would not recommend traveling to Cairo, as a tourist at this time, but having the umbrella of Fulbright to smooth some things over, really helped quite a bit on many levels. 

Besides some of the scheduled excursions, we did take the opportunity to walk the streets a bit and soak up the local sights and sounds.  Incredible tension and uneasiness, often gave way to warm smiles, conversation, and gratitude from the Cairenes who were sincerely glad to see foreigners in their country.  They really have no beef with us – they just want to see economic and political stability resume.  I really felt like I made a difference to the views and outlooks for many Egyptians I met, whether it be at the U.S. Embassy or on the streets.

Cairo skyline on the Nile River

Cairo itself is an immense city!  Largest city in Africa and the biggest Arab city in the world.  Cars (a zillion of them) drive on large elevated highways without painted lines, traffic lights, stop signs, or yields (also, the occasional donkey-drawn carts as well, no kidding!).  It’s a virtual free-for-all, everywhere you go!  Crossing the street (only had to do this a couple times) was treacherous.  Trucks with sheep, goats, trash, you name it, all billowing over were weaving among cars with missing doors, and young children riding what looked like motorized bicycles.  Poverty runs rampant around the city and miles of apartment buildings lie clustered like old gutted relics.

Typical Cairo traffic

Minarets and mosques dominate the skyline and calls to prayer (‘Salah’) resonate throughout the city 5-times a day.  If you’re not outside to hear it, no fear, it’s loud enough to hear through hotel-grade windows and if that’s not enough most TVs and radios will blast it for you at the appropriate times no matter what is going on.

One of thousands of minarets. 

Inside Cairo mosque

My talk was well received and the other Fulbright Scholars are incredible people doing incredible things in the Middle East and North Africa. Way more interesting than me, although most people are intrigued that there is a lobster scientist in the group (actually someone also working on bees).

U.S. Embassy in Cairo

Us Israeli Fulbrighers held a quiet Shabbat in one of the rooms amidst the torrential cars beeping and Salah.  Tahrir Square is only a 15 min. walk from where we are and we saw some glimpses here and there of burnt out buildings, and cars, tents, a strong military presence and lots of graffiti.  

Let me just summarize a few of the highlights: (did other things not on this list that you can ask me about another time).

The Hotel (Marriot Cairo): A former palace built to commemorate the completion of the Suez Canal in 1869 and located in the Zamalek district of the city.  Also, the first venue for the opera ‘Aida’ and a prominent destination for many of Europe’s monarchs.  I felt like royalty here especially since nobody else was really visiting.  Actually, the Hotel serves as a base for what appears to be many U.S. travelers including contractors, and diplomats.  I would highly recommend this place if you decide to go someday.  Coincidentally, newly appointed Secretary of State, John Kerry, was a few doors down from our meeting on his inaugural trip. 

Inside the hotel (photo by Phil Hopper)

One of our meeting rooms - not your average
hotel conference room!

By the way, this short video was filmed in the same hallway we had our meeting and we are standing behind all the cameras.  You can't see us but we were there!

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/video/2013/mar/02/john-kerry-arab-league-video

The Pyramids: We saw the ones in Giza (close to Cairo) but, because we were in talks and meetings all day, we had to go for a night trip that included some very antiquated and corny light show (do not recommend).  Not to mention it was depressing being the only ones there (a group of about 30 of us in total) and seating of at least 500.  Would recommend going during the day and paying the extra $ to go INSIDE the pyramids.

Egyptian Museum: An easy 15-minute walk from the hotel.  You ever get bored of the same-old-same-old museum?  That is, a suggested route to walk, informative, but often long placards of information, people directing you where to walk, and too much order? Well, this place was none of that.  Besides being the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world, it’s kinda’ like walking through the warehouse of relics that’s in the last scene of Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark (the first in the series).  Immense rooms give way to a mind-boggling number of statues, pillars, and ornaments, many the size of mobile homes -- that’s just for starters.  Then, there’s all kinds of little off-shoots from the big rooms that contain cases of jewelry, mini-statues, trinkets, weapons, and all that stuff you know from the Pharaohs and their cities. Best of all…….. THE MUMMIES.  Never had any clue how amazingly real and scary these things look (much more so than the movie!).  Encased in special air-controlled clear boxes, these 4,000 year-old people were some of the most important in Egyptian history and many looked like they could sit up and talk with you.

Mummy (photo from the web - I wasn't allowed
to bring my camera)

Coptic Cairo: This is the historical Christian ‘quarter’ in Cairo.  The Churches are beautiful, complex, and extremely old.

The Hanging Church in Coptic Cairo

Inside the Hanging Church

AND… my favorite highlight, a Nubian Wedding.  There’s all kinds of things happening on the streets, all the time.  A group of us managed to see this and it is considered rare even in Cairo.  The only way to really convey the experience is the following video link.

By: Rebecca and Jason

We were invited by Fulbright to go see Obama speak in Jerusalem this past week. We were told we would be in the overflow room, but to get there early as there was a chance we would be able to get into the main auditorium.

The email from the Fulbright folks said to meet them at the Crowne Plaza next to the convention center to pick up our tickets around noon. The speech was scheduled for something in the afternoon - basically whenever Obama arrived.

We ran into some other Fulbrighters waiting at the hotel, had some coffee and got our tickets. We had to walk down the street to join the line waiting to get into the convention center. The shortest route was seemed to be to walk through the adjacent parking lot, so we did. By doing so, we accidentally circumvented the whole line, ending up inside the gate. We were asked if we were American (yes) and then if we were with the Embassy (sort of). The security guard (an elite military officer with more weapons than martial arts movie) seemed to think this was good enough and told us just to stay where we were. Getting around the rules is very common in Israel - it's called a kombina. 

You don't want to mess with these guys!!!

Ending up at the front of the line was the key to the success of the day. Most people were issued blue tickets, which meant they were guaranteed a seat. We had yellow, which mean we were on the waiting list. Once we got inside, we were issued numbers and would be given seats as they opened up. The lower your number, the better your chance.

Not exactly a golden ticket...but it got us in!

After hours of waiting, multiple security checks (I was asked 3 separate times if I had a gun), we were in the lucky 187 that got the extra seats in the main auditorium. Not all the Fulbrighters were so lucky, but the few that stayed in the overflow room got another and equally interesting perspective of the speech. 

Mr. President

We felt proud to be Americans and were pleasantly surprised at the amount of substance behind the President's words. Overall, the audience had a seemingly favorable view. They must have been among the 10% of Israelis that like Obama. There was one heckler near the beginning and we're not exactly sure what he said, but Obama handled it well. He even joked that he felt right at home and it wouldn't be a speech if there wasn't at least one heckler!

It was another completely surreal experience to be watching the President of the United States give a speech in a convention center in Jerusalem!

If you'd like to read the speech, you can find it here.

As you know, this visit wasn't just one speech to students in Jerusalem. There were several press conferences and visits to places throughout Israel. One of which, was Yad Vashem. His remarks there were incredibly meaningful. If you are interested in reading the transcript, you can find that here as well. 

By: Rebecca and Jason

We took a two day Fulbright-sponsored trip to northern Israel and the Galilee. It was great to spend some time getting to know the other Fulbrighters and hear about their experiences in Israel thus far. 

Almond trees and Mt. Hermon.

Our travels included a variety of stops, farms, nature reserves, and ethnic villages: 

Spicy Way Farm Store - more spices, 
herbs, and teas than you can imagine.

One of the most unexpected and surprising stops on the tour was a village called Kfar Kama. The village is home to a group of people known as Circassians. The Circassians originated from an area in the north Caucasus mountains (now Chechnya). The Circassian people are known as extremely brave and fierce warriors - evidenced by the armor and weapons on display. The Cicassians in Israel serve in the Israeli army and consider themselves to be full citizens. 

Our guide at the Heritage Center spoke to us in his native Circassian language. It didn't sound like words, but more like sounds from nature. For example, the word for ocean sounded like a wave breaking, the word for bee sounded like bzzzzzz, and the word for wind sound liked like rustling leaves. 

Although this was a town of about 4,000, the Circassian diaspora is found elsewhere in the middle east, Turkey and the USA (California, New Jersey, and Maine).

Traditional dancers in traditional dress at the 
Circassian Heritage Center

We stopped for lunch in a Druze village called Peqi'in, which is also the site of the Cave of Shimon bar Yochai. Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai was a spiritual leader and believed to be the founder of the kabbalistic tradition of Judaism. According to legend, to escape the Romans, he and his son hid in a very small cave for 13 years living on the fruit of a carob tree and water from a spring.

Not sure I could live in this cave 
for 13 years!

The Druze are a distinct religious group - the basis of their beliefs is derived from Shia Islam, but their secretive faith differs from mainstream Islam on many fundamental points. Most Druze live in Syria or Lebanon, but a small (less than 10) percentage live in Israel, where they serve in the military and even have members in Parliament. 

Lunch in a traditional Druze restaurant. 

We stayed the night at the hotel at Kibbutz Kfar Blum. The kibbutz is the Tanglewood of Israel, hosting a large music festival in the summer. The hotel was beautiful and we were happy to spend some time in the spa before dinner (thanks Fulbright!).

The next day, our first stop was Dubrovin Farm in Yesod Hama'ala. The Dubrovin family immigrated in 1904 from Russia (though they were not Jewish, they later converted). The farm won many awards in agriculture and is credited with cultivating a large variety of chickpea which is now grown world-wide. 

The kitchen at the Dubrovin Farm Museum.

After lunch we went to the Banias Nature Reserve. The Banias is the headwaters of the Jordan River at the base of Mt. Hermon (2,800 meters or 9,200 feet!). From the springs emerge cold, clean water that flows into beautiful natural pools. The water from these springs provides drinking water for people and wildlife alike. Water is a big deal here for obvious reasons!

The Hermon Spring at Banias.

We couldn't believe how much water there was and how green everything was. It really felt like walking through a forest! There were lots of trees (willows, Syrian ash, oak, poplar, almonds), flowers, and wild raspberries (we plan to go back when those are ripe!).

As with everything in Israel, there are layers of history superimposed on the natural landscape. The other fascinating part of the Banias is the archaeology. The Greeks built a temple here to honor the God Pan. The temple evolved during the reigns of King Herod and the Romans. Many parts of the temple are still intact and the site is an active archaeological dig. The name Banias comes from the word Paneas (the 'p' becomes a 'b' in the Arabic pronunciation).

The remains of the Temple of Pan.

The last stop on the tour was the Agamon Lake bird sanctuary in the Hula Valley. The Hula valley is a vital stopping point for migratory birds flying between Africa and Europe. You can find more than 200 different species here during the year. Agamon Lake was Israel's first nature reserve (set up in 1964). We were both glad not to have a fear of birds! It was crazy!! We took a guided tractor ride through the reserve at feeding time. There were thousands of birds, mostly wood cranes, and they were hungry! 

Cranes coming in for food.

Visit our photo album for more pictures and some video of this trip.