By: Rebecca

When we first arrived in Israel, it was hard not to make comparisons to things in the US. We found ourselves doing less and less of that as we became more familiar with living in a different country. There were always things we missed and things we wished were more like home, but we did adapt - probably better than we thought we would. 

I had thought that coming back to the United States would be something I looked forward to without any backward glances. I was surprised to find that I was not completely glad to leave. Ultimately, I am glad to be home (the US definitely feels like home), but I will miss Israel more than I thought. 

Spring flowers in the Galilee

Living abroad was an unforgettable experience. No matter where you are from, living in another country for awhile will open your eyes. I considered myself to be pretty aware of what was going on in the wider world. That is even more true now. Even just watching the news from another country gives you a different perspective. 

Our friends and family were worried for our safety because the impression in the US is that Israel is a dangerous place. It can be, but so can the United States. Granted, some of the dangers are very different (I never thought about rocket attacks in NH), but there are dangers everywhere. Israelis face threats head-on and the day-to-day life reflects the general awareness that something could easily happen. When you go to the mall, bus station, university or even the movies, you go through a metal detector and/or have your bags searched. If you drive to the mall, they search your car. Invasion of privacy you might say, but it's all in the name of safety - same reason you don't argue with metal detectors at the airport. The first few times I went to the grocery store in NH, I started to hand over my purse. It had become habit, just like I always fasten my seat belt in the car.

We will adapt to being home and, although it may take a little while, the US will once again feel like a familiar place. It is said that you can't go home again, but I don't think that's true. You can go home again. It's just that there may be more than one place to call home. 

Adventures in the Negev

This experience opened our eyes and taught us things we'd never have imagined. We hope that it has opened your eyes as well, especially now. As the conflict rages on between Israel and Gaza, we hope that our friends and family are safe. You can read more about our thoughts on the ongoing conflict in our post from a few weeks ago.

We have a few more blog posts in the works to wrap up our Israeli adventure. We hope to continue to blog about our travels and may even continue to write about the everyday. Not sure if we'll change the name of the blog or not, so stay tuned...

By: Rebecca and Jason

Last month, Jason attended the 10th annual International Conference and Workshop on Lobsters in Cancún. Yes, an entire week devoted to all things lobster (including one evening of eating them). We decided to make a mini-vacation out of the trip so we flew down a couple days early to have some free time before the conference started. 

The view from our hotel balcony

The first night we arrived we went out to dinner at a restaurant just down the street from our hotel. Called Navíos, the restaurant is built on a pier on the lagoon-side of the barrier beach. We had some fantastic food (smoked marlin tostadas with avocado and picked onion was just one offering), tasty drinks, and great service from our waiter, Alberto, who looked like a Mexican version of Danny Divito.

On Sunday, we escaped the torrential rain in Cancún and took a bus tour to Chichén Itzá. Like all bus tours, there are several stops, but our favorite was Chichén Itzá itself. One of the new seven wonders of the world, the site was built by the Mayans around 600 AD. Having seen two of the other sites on the list (here and here) and the only one left of the original seven (here). We were impressed! We hadn't realized that there was more than the one huge pyramid. The site is quite large and varied. There are many temples to various gods, a market, ballcourts, roads, etc. Although I'm sure the tour guide had good things to say, we ditched the tour in favor of wandering around and getting a feel for the site ourselves. 

The great pyramid at Chichén Itzá

The ball court at Chichén Itzá

Temple of Sacrifice

At Chichén Itzá's sacred cenote

On the way back to Cancún we stopped in the town of Valladolid. The tour was running late so we only had a short time to wander around the main square, see the huge cathedral (San Servacio) and get a snack. We would have loved to explore the streets with their Spanish Colonial vibe - maybe next time.

The last stop before the long drive back to Cancún was a cenote (sinkhole). We took a quick swim in the cold, but refreshing water and stared up at the stalactites hanging from the ceiling. It was late and not so sunny, but the water was still a beautiful shade of blue. We got out feeling relaxed after a long day of sightseeing.  

I took a day off from the conference to visit Isla Mujeres, an island off the northern tip of Cancún. I took the ferry to the island and spent the afternoon wandering the quaint (though very full of tourist) streets and walking along the beautiful beach. Later in the week, Jason visited the reef off the island on his SCUBA trip. He got some fantastic photos and saw an abundance of marine life including, of course, lobsters!

Entrance to the beach on Isla Mujeres

Boats in the Isla's harbor

Mermaid statue on the east side of the Island

We would definitely visit the Yucatán again. Next time we'd love to do more exploring. Although the beaches of Cancún are gorgeous, there is so much more to do in this part of México. 

Stayed tuned for Jason's post on SCUBA diving. See more pictures of our trip here: 

Mexico

By: Rebecca and Jason

For our recent trip to Petra, we decided to drive to Eilat instead of flying or taking a bus. The bus trip is looooong, and since there were three of us, it made more sense to drive than to fly. Another reason for driving was to take the scenic route through the Negev desert. 

We had been to the Judaean desert several times, but not further south to the Negev. The Negev covers more than half of Israel's land area, but is home to only about 8% of the population. We drove through the Negev highlands and the Aravah valley on the way south.

The Negev Highlands

Spring flowers in the Negev

With Alex as our guide, we decided to turn off the main roads and take a more interesting route to see some of the  impressive geological and historical sites. This meant we would drive down the infamous Akrabbim (Scorpions) Ascent. The road was originally built by the Romans as a shortcut for the spice route from Eilat to the coast. The road was so steep and treacherous that the traders abandoned their carts at the base of the mountain and used camels to carry the goods up to the top where there were new carts waiting for them. It might seem like a lot to go through, but this shortcut lessened the length of the trip by several days. Even for the Romans, time was money. 

We also stopped to see one of the many Roman forts that dot the desert. We even drove by one that Alex excavated. They don't look like much until you wander through them with an archaeologist. It continues to amaze us how much someone can tell about a site from a few remaining walls and some pottery shards. 

The famous Akrabbim Ascent - the black dots are 
barrels marking the edge of the road's many switchbacks

On our way back from Eilat, we were fortunate to drive through the Aravah Valley at sunset. The nearly full moon rose over mountains glowing pink and orange in the light from the setting sun. A beautiful sight and a fitting end to a fantastic trip

Sunset in the Aravah valley

Moonrise in the Aravah valley

More photos from our drive through the Negev:

The Negev

By: Rebecca and Jason

Last weekend we took a much anticipated trip to Jordan to visit Petra. Our friend (and fellow Fulbrighter) Alex came with us. We got so much more out of the trip having an archaeologist along for the ride!

A UNESCO world heritage site and one of the new seven wonders of the world, Petra has to be seen to be believed. Originally established by the Nabataeans as a necropolis (city of the dead), Petra eventually became a capital city for the living. The Nabataeans were eventually absorbed into the Roman Empire, but the city of Petra continued to play an important role in military and trade routes for centuries. Though there are ruins from nearly every era to see at Petra, by far the most impressive are the elaborate tombs carved into the pink sandstone. 

The Royal tomb

Our plan was to visit Petra on Friday and start back to Israel Saturday morning. The weather had other plans. We woke up to clouds and as we stood in line for tickets, it began to rain. We decided to buy 2-day tickets for a few extra dinar and cross our fingers that the rain would let up. As we walked down the road toward the Siq (canyon), it was windy, cloudy, and misty, but nothing we couldn't handle. 

About halfway down the Siq, the weather took a turn for the worse. It started snowing/hailing/freezing rain all at once accompanied by loud rumbles of thunder. I wondered out loud if we might become trapped in the canyon. We made it as far as the Treasury (impressive even in the rain!), but took one look at the sudden appearance of waterfalls from the canyon rim and a river running through the Siq and decided not to continue. We were holed up in a souvenir and tea stall with tourists from all over the world and a bunch of Bedouins. Jason had a deep discussion with one of the Bedouin men about religion and politics. We were eventually rescued by pickup trucks where we piled in like cord wood and held on tight for a bumpy ride back up through the canyon.

Cloudy, rainy walk into the Siq

Snow accumulated along the Roman road

Tourists being rescued

The next day, we started out at sunrise for Petra, take 2. As the sun rose, the sandstone came alive with rose and orange - stunning against the blue sky. The Siq alone is worth seeing. At every turn along the road there is another gorgeous view. Pictures do not do any justice to the colors of the sandstone. 

The Siq in the sunlight

You have to appreciate the magnitude and breadth of Petra. You feel like you are really entering another world. You don't just park your car and walk in. Once you have your ticket, you walk down a long road just to get to the entrance to the canyon. A horse ride down this road is included in your ticket, but we elected to walk so we could see the sights along the way. When you get to the canyon, it is almost another mile to get into the park proper! You can take a "desert taxi" - camels or donkeys - if you want to save your energy for later. 

Simple tombs carved into the sandstone cliff

Perhaps the most famous view in Petra is the Treasury. You may recognize the site from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The Treasury is actually a tomb from the later part of the Nabataean period. Much to Jason's dismay, it does not house the Holy Grail, gold, or any other exciting things. Although the Treasury may be the most famous site in Petra, there are hundreds of other tombs, some of them opulent and others just basic holes carved into the rock. There is also an amphitheater, a large temple complex, a Roman colonnaded street, and two Byzantine churches.

The Treasury

View from the Royal Tomb

Guard at the Royal tomb

With all the walking and exploring, we were grateful to be invited by a Bedouin woman to sit down for some tea. We started chatting with her and she was delighted to discover that Alex knew the archaeologists who had been working at Petra for years. "Martha is your friend, Martha is my friend, so you are my friend," she told Alex. 

Jason, Alex, a friendly Bedouin girl, and an
especially friendly donkey

The final highlight of the trip was the taxi ride back from Petra to the border crossing in Aqaba. We were prepared to bargain, but the first driver we came upon offered us an excellent deal so after a quick inspection of his car (we had a less than stellar vehicle for the ride there), we hopped in. Jason sat in front and chatted with our driver who spoke excellent English. An exceptional driver, he appeared to be a regular cabbie until, upon further prying, we found out that he used to be an official chauffeur for the Jordanian royal family. You may not believe him, but he made that Toyota Corolla feel like a Rolls-Royce (just one of the many cars he drove for the former King). 

More photos (and a video of the snow) from Petra:

Petra Trip March 2014

For the second time in a month, we had guests visiting us in Haifa. This time, Jason's sister Sara and her boyfriend Eric were here for a week. Here's what they had to say about their week in Israel...

We just returned from our trip to Israel to visit Jason and Rebecca, and all we can say is “waaaaaahhhhhhh”.  We did not want to leave!! Our trip was full of beautiful sites, amazing stories and delicious treats.  Not only that, but we got to spend some quality time with my brother and his girlfriend, which is worth way more than a pile of baklava any day. 

The first night we were in Israel was spent with my cousin, Sharon, and her family.  It’s been 3 years since I’ve seen them all and it was a perfect start to our trip.  We played cribbage with their son Ezra, joked around with Avidan (another son) and had breakfast with the whole family the next morning.  Next time we come to Israel we are absolutely staying with them for more than one night!

We made it to Haifa in one piece the next morning, only slightly jet-lagged and ready for some adventures! Our journey started with a visit to the most incredible mosaic-tiled Tunisian synagogue we’ve ever seen (see Jason and Rebecca’s post for pics), and then a trip to Akko, a fortress city with some bangin’ hummous and a relaxed atmosphere.  Then we went to the most northern point of Israel to visit the caves of Rosh Hanikra.  Jay and Rebecca (who will be referred to as J&R from now on for simplicity sake) had already been to this site, so we explored this on our own and were AMAZED to view the caverns filled with turquoise water.  Such beautiful views all around!

View outside the caves of Rosh Hanikra

The next stop was quite unexpected, to say the least!  Achzivland is a micronation of Israel, founded in 1970 and inhabited by only two people (and several dogs and cats).  The couple literally founded their own nation, for reasons unknown, which is nestled in the northern part of Israel on the shores of the Mediterranean.  They even have their own passport stamps!!  On their land is a museum of sorts with a random assortment of pottery, statues, dolls and coins.  Their land also allowed access to the beach, where we combed the sands for sea glass and artifacts while the sun set across the Mediterranean.

Eric tries to conquer Achzivland

All four of us in Achzivland

Our next day was filled again with a visit to Capernaum, which is located on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, and is home to two ancient synagogues built one over the other (circa late 4^th century CE).  Today, there is a “floating” octagonal church built over the 5^th century CE church on this site, which was quite the impressive engineering feat.

Impressive architectural church built over the ruins of
a 5^th century CE church

Next up, we hiked the cliffs of Arbel, overlooking the Sea of Galilee.  This was particularly exciting because J&R had never been before and the views were absolutely breathtaking!  Jay, Rebecca and Eric also got to try their hand at scaling the cliffs.

View of the Galilee from the Arbel Cliff

Eric and I took the next day and hiked Masada and Ein Gedi and then took a dip in the Dead Sea, which was Eric’s first time.  J&R had been to those spots multiple times, so they met up with us in Jerusalem that night, where we had a delicious dinner of flatbreads, stuffed mushrooms, tapenade and homemade pasta.  Eric and Jay went to a local bar afterward, and on the way home Eric performed his first mitzvah when he helped 5 Hasidic men change a tire! 

The following day we all spent exploring Jerusalem.  Eric and I did the underground tunnel tour of the Western Wall and then went shopping in the markets.  Eric was VERY impressed by my haggling skills as I negotiated prices with all of the vendors in the markets.  It is basically expected that you do not pay the price initially given to you and instead, cut it down by half. 

We ended our trip with a walking food tour of Haifa, complete with THE BEST falafel and literally piles and piles of baklava.  It is impossible to really describe the amount of baklava
that was in this shop, but it was jaw-dropping!! 

Hands down the best falafel in the world

Mountain of baklava

Israel is one of the most unique places that either Eric or I have traveled to, and we are so grateful that Jason and Rebecca hosted us and toured us around the country.

By: Jason and Rebecca

Italy has something for everyone, plain and simple. Take your pick:  How about taking in the colossal and ancient sites of Rome like the Colosseum, the Forum, Capitoline Hill or the Vatican?  Or spending some time among the countless museums of Italian Renaissance art or Etruscan culture (people that pre-dated the Roman Empire and for whom Tuscany is named).  

The Colosseum at sunset

Looking back toward the Roman Forum from the Colosseum

Christmas tree lighting in St. Peter's Square

Not your thing?  Okay, what about eating your way through Italy starting with fresh pasta, arancini, pizza (of course) and wine followed by canoli dipped in chocolate and pistachios with a side of delicious gelato (you choose, there’s hundreds of flavors)?  

All this making you tired?  No problem.  Just gussy up to one of the thousands of coffee bars where you can slam a euro or two on the counter and be served the best espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, etc. you’ve ever had.  Be quick to down it, because you still have lots of other sites, sounds, and delicious smells awaiting you.

For a more laid back and relaxing time, grab a car (only a 5-speed will do) and drive north a couple hours where you will be transported into another world that flows with glowing sunshine, robust vineyards, and medieval-fortress cities perched atop of hills: the Tuscan countryside. On the way, stop at a gas station for famous buffalo mozzarella and more canoli.

Siena, Italy

Forgotten grapes

All that driving making you hungry again? Check in to the B&B (in a restored 18th century farmhouse), and take a bus into Siena for a fabulous dinner at a restaurant tucked into an Estruscan tomb. Take in the city at night - complete with Christmas lights.

Dinner in an Estruscan tomb

The next morning, tour Siena by daylight, do some shopping and drink more espresso! You'll need it for the drive through Tuscany. Visit vineyards, wine cellars, cheese shops, and more. Watch the sun set over the hills. End up in Orvieto and take in the Christmas parade and lights. Have dinner at a local bar and then head back to Rome. 

Montepulciano, Italy by moonlight

Orvieto, Italy - Christmas time!

That's just a snapshot of how we spent our week. We had a great time and hope reading this post puts you in the holiday spirit. Made some great friends (thanks to Marco and Isabelle for sharing their home with us!). Italy has so much to offer and we barely scratched the surface. We'd love to go back again someday soon!

Lots more pictures of our trip in the photo album!

By Jason and Rebecca

We've been committed to exploring Tel Aviv (Israel's largest city) the past few weeks. There's tons to see and do, and we've only scratched the surface. We wanted to share a few highlights from our most recent day trip.

The easiest way to get to Tel Aviv from Haifa is the train. It's fast, cheap, and efficient. Once there, we can walk to almost everything we are interested in seeing.

One of the many bike and pedestrian trails in Tel Aviv

First stop on this trip was the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. Surprisingly spacious (especially for Israel), they have an impressive collection of art. We spent most of our time in the Impressionist section, but also toured contemporary (lots of Andy Warhol) and photography. There was a special exhibit commemorating the 40th anniversary of the Yom Kippur war. It was small, but intense and captured the feeling of that moment in history. 

Tel Aviv Museum of Art

Next, we made a long trek to the Nachalat Binyamin market - a weekly craft fair showing the works of Israeli artists: jewelry, ceramics, paintings, textiles, glass, and seasonal items. Surrounding this pedestrian mall are a variety of restaurants, cafes, and shops, making it a great place to spend a few hours. We have been on a quest for a Chanukah menorah (technically called a Chanukiah since menorah literally translates to lamp). Last time we visited the market, we had spotted one we liked and, since Chanukah is right around the corner and a chanukiah is on our list of items to get while in Israel, we decided to go for it. 

Our Chanukiah - stained glass and an
unusual round design

Street performer at the market - a wannabe Joni Mitchell?

After perusing the market, we decided to get some food while on the walk back to the train. Trying to be healthy, we got a delicious fruit smoothy at one of the ubiquitous smoothy stands. We followed that up with another Chanukah treat - sufganiyot! Basically a jelly doughnut. To redeem ourselves, for dinner we stopped at a small restaurant called Fresh Kitchen and split a delicious cheese and roasted veggie panini and a salad. 

DELICIOUS sufganiyot!

We also stumbled on one of the best music/movie stores we've ever seen. They had every movie you could think of organized by genre, actor, director, and country - even an entire shelf of Canadian films! We browsed the extensive music collection and Jason picked up a CD of instrumental middle-eastern flavored jazz by a native Haifa musician. 

It was great to explore Tel Aviv and enjoy the beautiful weather. We plan to go back again soon. 

Just one example of Tel Aviv's interesting architecture