Sorry for the long post, but it’s really worthy of it.
I think the verdict was virtually dead-locked when asking people their thoughts on whether or not I should go to Egypt. After a lot of thinking and talking to many of my peers (both in the U.S. and Israel), I decided, that this Fulbright-sponsored trip would be worthwhile. Luckily, it was a good decision. One of the most meaningful and eye-opening trips I have ever been on. The experience provided an amazing combination of academic immersion with my Fulbright colleagues, the rich and ancient history of Cairo and its surroundings, and dramatic insight into the cultural and political upheaval that the Egyptian people are surrounded by. I would not recommend traveling to Cairo, as a tourist at this time, but having the umbrella of Fulbright to smooth some things over, really helped quite a bit on many levels.
Besides some of the scheduled excursions, we did take the opportunity to walk the streets a bit and soak up the local sights and sounds. Incredible tension and uneasiness, often gave way to warm smiles, conversation, and gratitude from the Cairenes who were sincerely glad to see foreigners in their country. They really have no beef with us – they just want to see economic and political stability resume. I really felt like I made a difference to the views and outlooks for many Egyptians I met, whether it be at the U.S. Embassy or on the streets.
 |
| Cairo skyline on the Nile River |
Cairo itself is an immense city! Largest city in Africa and the biggest Arab city in the world. Cars (a zillion of them) drive on large elevated highways without painted lines, traffic lights, stop signs, or yields (also, the occasional donkey-drawn carts as well, no kidding!). It’s a virtual free-for-all, everywhere you go! Crossing the street (only had to do this a couple times) was treacherous. Trucks with sheep, goats, trash, you name it, all billowing over were weaving among cars with missing doors, and young children riding what looked like motorized bicycles. Poverty runs rampant around the city and miles of apartment buildings lie clustered like old gutted relics.
 |
| Typical Cairo traffic |
Minarets and mosques dominate the skyline and calls to prayer (‘Salah’) resonate throughout the city 5-times a day. If you’re not outside to hear it, no fear, it’s loud enough to hear through hotel-grade windows and if that’s not enough most TVs and radios will blast it for you at the appropriate times no matter what is going on.
 |
| One of thousands of minarets. |
 |
| Inside Cairo mosque |
My talk was well received and the other Fulbright Scholars are incredible people doing incredible things in the Middle East and North Africa. Way more interesting than me, although most people are intrigued that there is a lobster scientist in the group (actually someone also working on bees).
 |
| U.S. Embassy in Cairo |
Us Israeli Fulbrighers held a quiet Shabbat in one of the rooms amidst the torrential cars beeping and Salah. Tahrir Square is only a 15 min. walk from where we are and we saw some glimpses here and there of burnt out buildings, and cars, tents, a strong military presence and lots of graffiti.
Let me just summarize a few of the highlights: (did other things not on this list that you can ask me about another time).
The Hotel (Marriot Cairo): A former palace built to commemorate the completion of the Suez Canal in 1869 and located in the Zamalek district of the city. Also, the first venue for the opera ‘Aida’ and a prominent destination for many of Europe’s monarchs. I felt like royalty here especially since nobody else was really visiting. Actually, the Hotel serves as a base for what appears to be many U.S. travelers including contractors, and diplomats. I would highly recommend this place if you decide to go someday. Coincidentally, newly appointed Secretary of State, John Kerry, was a few doors down from our meeting on his inaugural trip.
Let me just summarize a few of the highlights: (did other things not on this list that you can ask me about another time).
The Hotel (Marriot Cairo): A former palace built to commemorate the completion of the Suez Canal in 1869 and located in the Zamalek district of the city. Also, the first venue for the opera ‘Aida’ and a prominent destination for many of Europe’s monarchs. I felt like royalty here especially since nobody else was really visiting. Actually, the Hotel serves as a base for what appears to be many U.S. travelers including contractors, and diplomats. I would highly recommend this place if you decide to go someday. Coincidentally, newly appointed Secretary of State, John Kerry, was a few doors down from our meeting on his inaugural trip.
 |
| Inside the hotel (photo by Phil Hopper) |
 |
| One of our meeting rooms - not your average hotel conference room! |
By the way, this short video was filmed in the same hallway we had our meeting and we are standing behind all the cameras. You can't see us but we were there!
The Pyramids: We saw the ones in Giza (close to Cairo) but, because we were in talks and meetings all day, we had to go for a night trip that included some very antiquated and corny light show (do not recommend). Not to mention it was depressing being the only ones there (a group of about 30 of us in total) and seating of at least 500. Would recommend going during the day and paying the extra $ to go INSIDE the pyramids.
Egyptian Museum: An easy 15-minute walk from the hotel. You ever get bored of the same-old-same-old museum? That is, a suggested route to walk, informative, but often long placards of information, people directing you where to walk, and too much order? Well, this place was none of that. Besides being the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world, it’s kinda’ like walking through the warehouse of relics that’s in the last scene of Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark (the first in the series). Immense rooms give way to a mind-boggling number of statues, pillars, and ornaments, many the size of mobile homes -- that’s just for starters. Then, there’s all kinds of little off-shoots from the big rooms that contain cases of jewelry, mini-statues, trinkets, weapons, and all that stuff you know from the Pharaohs and their cities. Best of all…….. THE MUMMIES. Never had any clue how amazingly real and scary these things look (much more so than the movie!). Encased in special air-controlled clear boxes, these 4,000 year-old people were some of the most important in Egyptian history and many looked like they could sit up and talk with you.
Coptic Cairo: This is the historical Christian ‘quarter’ in Cairo. The Churches are beautiful, complex, and extremely old.
 |
| Mummy (photo from the web - I wasn't allowed to bring my camera) |
Coptic Cairo: This is the historical Christian ‘quarter’ in Cairo. The Churches are beautiful, complex, and extremely old.
 |
| The Hanging Church in Coptic Cairo |
 |
| Inside the Hanging Church |
AND… my favorite highlight, a Nubian Wedding. There’s all kinds of things happening on the streets, all the time. A group of us managed to see this and it is considered rare even in Cairo. The only way to really convey the experience is the following video link.
No comments:
Post a Comment