To Africa!!

Saturday, October 12, 2013

By: Rebecca and Jason

When you think of autumn, what comes to mind? Apple picking, pumpkins, hay rides, to name a few. How does a jeep ride through the desert sound? Not very fall like!


A view of the desert, Dead Sea and Jordan. The lines
in the sea are where salt is collected for everything
from cosmetics to food.

This past week Fulbright sponsored their first trip of the new year -  an excursion to Israel's deserts. We will describe the rest of the trip in another post, but this particular highlight deserved a post of it's own. 

One of the remarkable things about Israel is how diverse the landscapes are - from north to south and from east to west. Most people assume the entire country is a desert, but in fact, the deserts are primarily found in the south. 

The touring jeeps met us at the hotel first thing in the morning. Along with a few others, we had our eyes on the one Land Rover that was open on all sides. We piled in and set off down the highway. Ali, our Bedouin driver, suddenly pulled over shouting, "I do something for the children!" He jumped out and proceeded to unfasten and lower the windshield. These were, after all Land Rovers, which come apart like Legos. He drove off like a bat out of hell, raised his fist, and shouted, "TO AFRICA!!" 


Look Mom, no windshield!
Our Land Rover - by far the best of the bunch!

A short time later, Ali took a hard right off the highway and the true adventure began. We blasted down desert "roads", through narrow channels between cliffs, getting lessons about desert flora and fauna, how to use rocks as sunscreen, and what to do if you are lost in the desert overnight (besides panic). At one point, we climbed a steep canyon wall and up to a cliff that looked like the edge of the world (a classic Thelma and Louise moment). Luckily, instead of driving over the cliff, we were treated to an amazing view of the Judaean Desert, the Dead Sea, and the mountains of Jordan on the other side. Back in the jeep, Ali, insisted on "testing" the brakes more than once by inching towards the drop-off. Don't try this at home!

Ali proved to be an excellent driver. Although we spent much of the ride hanging on for dear life, he was being mostly careful. However, at one point, our fellow Fulbrighter (and resident archaeologist)  Alex lost her grip as our Land Rover became airborne. She flew through the air, landing across our laps. Fortunately no one was injured (though a bit shell-shocked) and the show went on. 


Can you spot the ibex?

Another memorable moment came when our fellow Bay Stater announced the Red Sox's victory in the first round of the playoffs. We all cheered loudly. Never thought I'd hear that news while in the middle of the desert! Can you believe cell phones work out there?

Our tour guides were Bedouins, a people indigenous to the deserts of the Middle East. They make their living off the land. They are friendly, cooperative, and more than willing to open your eyes to what, a first glance, just looks like a vast pile of sand. Our guide, Ali, told us that the desert is his "forest" and that he feels completely at home and at peace there. 


There is some water in the desert

Halfway through the 4-hour tour, our guides stopped in the shade of a large cliff and spread out a very large mat. They unloaded water and snacks and camping stoves on which they made tea from the local flora. It was a welcome break from being jolted around and sandblasted at 60 mph.


Making tea the Bedouin way

Although Israel's largest desert is the Negev, there are several smaller geographic desert areas, including the Judaean desert, which encompasses the area around the Dead Sea. It was a fantastic experience, but please excuse me while I get back to digging sand out of my ears.

More photos of our excursion in the album...

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