Adventures in Jordan - A Trip to Petra

By: Rebecca and Jason

Last weekend we took a much anticipated trip to Jordan to visit Petra. Our friend (and fellow Fulbrighter) Alex came with us. We got so much more out of the trip having an archaeologist along for the ride!

A UNESCO world heritage site and one of the new seven wonders of the world, Petra has to be seen to be believed. Originally established by the Nabataeans as a necropolis (city of the dead), Petra eventually became a capital city for the living. The Nabataeans were eventually absorbed into the Roman Empire, but the city of Petra continued to play an important role in military and trade routes for centuries. Though there are ruins from nearly every era to see at Petra, by far the most impressive are the elaborate tombs carved into the pink sandstone. 

The Royal tomb

Our plan was to visit Petra on Friday and start back to Israel Saturday morning. The weather had other plans. We woke up to clouds and as we stood in line for tickets, it began to rain. We decided to buy 2-day tickets for a few extra dinar and cross our fingers that the rain would let up. As we walked down the road toward the Siq (canyon), it was windy, cloudy, and misty, but nothing we couldn't handle. 

About halfway down the Siq, the weather took a turn for the worse. It started snowing/hailing/freezing rain all at once accompanied by loud rumbles of thunder. I wondered out loud if we might become trapped in the canyon. We made it as far as the Treasury (impressive even in the rain!), but took one look at the sudden appearance of waterfalls from the canyon rim and a river running through the Siq and decided not to continue. We were holed up in a souvenir and tea stall with tourists from all over the world and a bunch of Bedouins. Jason had a deep discussion with one of the Bedouin men about religion and politics. We were eventually rescued by pickup trucks where we piled in like cord wood and held on tight for a bumpy ride back up through the canyon.

Cloudy, rainy walk into the Siq

Snow accumulated along the Roman road

Tourists being rescued

The next day, we started out at sunrise for Petra, take 2. As the sun rose, the sandstone came alive with rose and orange - stunning against the blue sky. The Siq alone is worth seeing. At every turn along the road there is another gorgeous view. Pictures do not do any justice to the colors of the sandstone. 

The Siq in the sunlight

You have to appreciate the magnitude and breadth of Petra. You feel like you are really entering another world. You don't just park your car and walk in. Once you have your ticket, you walk down a long road just to get to the entrance to the canyon. A horse ride down this road is included in your ticket, but we elected to walk so we could see the sights along the way. When you get to the canyon, it is almost another mile to get into the park proper! You can take a "desert taxi" - camels or donkeys - if you want to save your energy for later. 

Simple tombs carved into the sandstone cliff

Perhaps the most famous view in Petra is the Treasury. You may recognize the site from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The Treasury is actually a tomb from the later part of the Nabataean period. Much to Jason's dismay, it does not house the Holy Grail, gold, or any other exciting things. Although the Treasury may be the most famous site in Petra, there are hundreds of other tombs, some of them opulent and others just basic holes carved into the rock. There is also an amphitheater, a large temple complex, a Roman colonnaded street, and two Byzantine churches.

The Treasury

View from the Royal Tomb

Guard at the Royal tomb

With all the walking and exploring, we were grateful to be invited by a Bedouin woman to sit down for some tea. We started chatting with her and she was delighted to discover that Alex knew the archaeologists who had been working at Petra for years. "Martha is your friend, Martha is my friend, so you are my friend," she told Alex. 

Jason, Alex, a friendly Bedouin girl, and an
especially friendly donkey

The final highlight of the trip was the taxi ride back from Petra to the border crossing in Aqaba. We were prepared to bargain, but the first driver we came upon offered us an excellent deal so after a quick inspection of his car (we had a less than stellar vehicle for the ride there), we hopped in. Jason sat in front and chatted with our driver who spoke excellent English. An exceptional driver, he appeared to be a regular cabbie until, upon further prying, we found out that he used to be an official chauffeur for the Jordanian royal family. You may not believe him, but he made that Toyota Corolla feel like a Rolls-Royce (just one of the many cars he drove for the former King). 

More photos (and a video of the snow) from Petra:

Petra Trip March 2014