Jerusalem is a city that seems to be an endless place of discovery. If you are willing to do a lot of walking off the beaten paths, often in the heat, you will undoubtedly uncover a never-ending list of new things you didn’t get to do the last time you were there. Now, add to this a fellow Fulbrighter, who just happens to be a classical archaeologist, to accompany you and viola! -- Jerusalem becomes an even greater eye-opening experience.
I had the unique privilege to do just that and what a treat
it was. Rather than going into lots of details about this particular excursion, I've listed some highlights and links to places that you might be
interested in learning more about – these sites can say it much better than I
can.
The day started at the market where we filled up on fresh
produce, bread and cheese before taking the light rail to East Jerusalem and
entering the Old City through Damascus Gate.
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| Damascus Gate - East Jerusalem |
Mahane Yehuda Market:
One of the biggest and best in the country. The colors,
smells, and sights of all that Israel has to offer. What seems like miles of
fresh and dried fruits, fresh vegetables, hot breads and pastries, and some of the many foods unique to Israel and the Middle East like hummus, falafel, tahina,
and so much more.
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| The halva stand in Mahane Yehuda Market -- the best! |
Albright Institute of Archaeological Research:
Because we were in East Jerusalem and I was with an
archaeologist, we of course had to stop by the Albright Institute. This
colonial building, built at the turn of the 20th century is a primary center
for Middle Eastern research. The institute is complete with an extensive
library, part of which is housed in the confines of an old cistern, dorms for
visiting scholars, and a quaint and peaceful outside garden that is insulated
from the hustle and bustle outside the gates.
From the Albright's website:
“The W.F. Albright Institute of Archaeological Research
(AIAR) in Jerusalem is the oldest American research center for ancient Near
Eastern studies in the Middle East. Located 500 meters north of the old walled city of
Jerusalem, it is within walking distance of the Ecole Biblique, the British,
German, Spanish and Swedish Schools of Archaeology, the Hebrew Union
College-Nelson Glueck School of Biblical Archaeology, the Hebrew University (Mt.
Scopus campus), the Rockefeller Museum, and the Israel Antiquities
Authority. Also, within easy driving
distance are the Institute of Islamic Archaeology of Al-Quds University, the
Israel Museum, the Bible Lands Museum and the Hebrew University (Givat Ram
campus).”
Ece Homo ('Behold the Man') Church and Convent:
It is important to remember that, like many ancient cities,
present-day Jerusalem is built upon literal layers of previous structures. To
reach the time of the Roman occupation of the city, you need to descend on average
5-10 meters (15-30 feet) below the city, but sometimes much more. The Ece Homo Convent contains a
system of tunnels and the original Roman forum built by Emperor Hadrian under
the Antonine Fortress. This site is of
major significance for Christians, as it is believed to be one of the original
locations along the Via Dolorosa.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Ethiopian Monastery:
The holiest of places for Christians, the Church of Holy
Sepulchre was conceived and designed by the Emperor Constantine’s mother,
Helena, who at an older age, made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land in search of
the places Christ resided.
At the top of the Church lies the Ethiopian Monastery
(Deir El-Sultan) and there resides a group of Ethiopian Christians who found
refuge here from persecution in their native homeland.
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| Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre |
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| The Ethiopian Monastery atop the Holy Church |
Mount of Olives:
This is quite a hike and if you go, allow yourself plenty of
time. We decided to try for a bus to take us there from just outside Damascus
Gate in East Jerusalem. Unfortunately, the
bus was a no-show, so we opted for a crowded Arab sherut (shared taxi) that got
us most of the way (quite the joy ride!). The Mount of Olives,
is a mosaic of churches, gardens, olive groves, and an enormous Jewish
cemetery.
Lots of winding paths and walkways traverse through the gardens
and alongside many places of religious significance. We found the “Tomb of the
Prophets” and were led by a nice gentleman named Jemiel whose family home sat
next to the cave for decades. Fantastic views are to be had from the mountain, especially
close to sunset when the light hits the Old City, and the Temple Mount. Also apparent from this vantage point is the Kidron Valley that separates the Mount of Olives from the plateau upon
which the Old City sits.
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| From the Mount of Olives - looking down into the Kidron Valley and across to the Temple Mount |
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| Looking up from the ancient city towards the Dome of the Rock |
We took a hike down the Mount of Olives and were immediately
confronted by a ‘taxi driver’ who not only offered us a ride, but was also
peddling illegal ancient coins (not a good thing to do when you have an
archaeologist around!).
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